Vicky visited The Hague (Den Haag) last summer and loved her time there. Therefore when we were both invited back recently, she couldn’t wait for Mr ESLT to fall in love with the Royal City by the Sea too. The Hague which is located on the Western Coast and is the third largest city in The Netherlands. However, it is often overshadowed by it’s larger neighbours – Amsterdam and Rotterdam. Now having been to all three, we can’t understand for the life of us why. We’re not throwing shade on the two ‘dams, as far as city breaks go, they are great and have a lot to offer. However, The Hague has that certain something (well a lot of somethings, actually) extra for us. Therefore, we have put together this post all about our blissful beach break and exploring the highs of The Hague.
The vibrant and cosmopolitan city centre and the two wonderful laid back beaches of The Hague (Scheveningen and Kijkduin) are all bursting with history, culture, great views, quirkiness and amazing food. It’s a city that has something for everyone. The closest airport is Amsterdam Airport Schiphol which is approximately 30 minutes by train from The Hague. Also, a number of ferry operators run regular routes from various ports in England (including our hometown of Hull in East Yorkshire) to The Netherlands. Therefore making it a very accessible city to visit and one we highly recommend you do.
Kijkduin
Where to Stay?
Located on the North Sea Coast, our accommodation during our stay was a fabulous beach house. Situated right on, as the name suggests, the beach. Along the stretch of Blue Flag award-winning Kijkduin beach, there are 20 beach houses (‘Haagse Strandhuisjes’ in Dutch). Even though we stayed in March, a number of them were occupied as they’re well insulated and equipped with heaters. Proving that it doesn’t need to be summer to visit the beach. Each beach house has a shower room and two bedrooms. One double, one twin and also a sofabed in the living area. Therefore, easily able to accommodate four/five people. Making them great for solo travellers, couples and families too – just imagine the kids playing happily in the sand. They have everything needed for a great trip. Including power and the all important wifi which really makes it feel like a home from home.
With a spacious living/dining area leading out onto a veranda overlooking the North Sea, the beach houses are a great base. Either simply just to enjoy the beach, sea and surrounding area. Or to chill out at the end of a day exploring The Hague city centre, which is approximately 20 minutes away (by public transport – which is frequent, cheap and super reliable). Unfortunately, when we visited, the weather wasn’t playing ball. However, we could totally envisage ourselves sat on a deckchair drinking a glass of wine watching the sun go down. We guess a return trip during summer should be on the cards, right? As you can imagine, this is a popular spot and these beach houses are so unique, meaning they get booked up quickly. Therefore you have to book well in advance to avoid disappointment.
What To Do & Where To Eat?
Kijkdiun is the up and coming area of The Hague with a lot of recent renovations and many new facilities popping up all of the time. The area is particularly popular with kitesurfers with a number of kitesurfing schools in the area if you fancy giving it a go for yourselves. When we visited the kitesurfers were out in their droves loving the strong winds. We spent ages watching them. Mesmerised by how they were able to hold on for so long. Kijkduin has a lovely boulevard with a number of restaurants, cafes and bars which are perfect for grabbing lunch whilst exploring or even just a drink while doing a spot of people watching. You can also find the Loosduinen indoor shopping centre with over 100 various boutiques and shops (and a market on Tuesdays) in Kijkduin if you fancy some retail therapy.
If you are travelling with kids, there is plenty for them to do in Kijkduin too. Including the “Celestial Vault”, a big artificial crater in the dunes of Kijkduin created by artist James Turrell as a place to lay and gaze at the sky. Together with the Beachcomber’s Shed, which is open Saturday and Sunday afternoons (when the weather is nice) which allows kids to see what unusual objects ‘Uncle Jan’ has discovered over the years. Failing that, do as the Dutch do – grab a bike and explore the dunes at your leisure. Beach clubs line the shoreline of Kijkduin during the summer months including the fabulous Habana Beach where we ate two amazing and filling breakfasts. It’s a funky, laid back (some would say Insta worthy!) place to hang out, maybe grab something to eat while enjoying the beach or even for sundowners followed by a delicious dinner.
The Sights of Scheveningen
What to See & Do?
Scheveningen has been developed over recent years and attracts people from all over the world during the summer months for a number of reasons, but the primary one is the award-winning beach. It is a popular beach destination in The Netherlands and it is easy to see why – it has everything you need to have a fun-filled break. The famous Pier in Scheveningen is a great place to head, with food trucks, shops and even a new boutique-style hotel with rooms overlooking the North Sea. It is also home to a zip line and a 40-meter high Ferris wheel, which we had the pleasure of riding. Even though we took a ride on a rainy day, the panoramic views over the North Sea and Scheveningen and surrounding area were amazing. There’s even a VIP gondola with a glass bottom if you want to make the ride extra special.
Other attractions in Scheveningen include the Museum Beelden aan Zee ‘Sculptures by the Sea’, a museum which is home to numerous modern sculptures together with the free sculpture garden along Scheveningen boulevard displaying 23 fairytale-like sculptures made by American sculptor Tom Otterness. A visit to the Grand Hotel Amrath Kurhaus is a must too. You can’t miss it – it’s the big fancy building on the boulevard. Now a luxury hotel and spa, it was once a famous concert hall. In fact, the last gig played there was the Rolling Stones back in 1964. Check out the beautiful ceiling in the main ballroom and grab a coffee/beer and enjoy the views from the terrace. Legoland Holland is open right next door to the Kurhaus Hotel and is yet another reason why this visit will not be our last to The Hague. We mean come on, who doesn’t love lego?
Where To Eat?
As you would expect from any seaside destination, there are plenty of food stalls selling the obligatory ice cream and fish and chips. However, if you are looking for something more substantial – Scheveningen has got you covered. During the summer months, there are over 70 beach bars and cafes set up along the boulevard. However, only four are open all year round, one of which is Hart Beach. Hart Beach is not only a restaurant but a surf shop and a popular surf school too. Therefore the restaurant has the laid back vibe that you would expect making it a great place to grab dinner. We indulged in a wonderful and hearty meal here with Mr ESLT even opting for the tasty local stew dish. I imagine this is a great spot to hang out and watch people hit the waves of the North Sea during the height of summer.
The Hague City Centre
What To See?
The Hague city centre is easy to walk around, just watch out for the bikes and trams of course. It is also a pleasant city to wander around as it is not overly busy like it’s larger neighbours. With numerous independent boutiques and shops, not forgetting De Passage, which is the only (remaining) covered shopping arcade in the city, cafes, concert and dance venues, galleries, museums and restaurants, there is a lot to see (and do) in The Hague. Some of the biggies include The Binnenhof – the centre of politics in The Hague and the office of the Prime Minister of the Netherlands. Together with Grote of Sint-Jacobskerk (St. James’ Church) which is one of the oldest buildings in The Hague.
But the biggest of the biggies and the reason why a lot of people have heard of The Hague – the Peace Palace. The Hague is the international city of peace and justice. This is because of it being the home of the Peace Palace. It was originally built with the specific purpose to host the first international court for arbitration between states that have a conflict: the Permanent Court of Arbitration (PCA). The International Court of Justice (ICJ) is also housed in the Peace Palace. Therefore, this is another of the highs in The Hague – the highest court in the world. It’s the only principal organ of the United Nations outside of New York. The world-famous building is a national monument. It’s been awarded the European heritage label, one of the only three sites in the Netherlands to have so. Guided tours are available, just remember to take ID with you. Unfortunately photography is not permitted inside, however, we can confirm – it is stunning, even the toilets!
Where To Eat?
Lunch
There are loads of trendy and unique bars, cafes and restaurants in The Hague. However, none more so than Bleyenberg which is a new assortment of bars and a club, located in a building that used to be a wallpaper and DIY store. It is named after the former manager of that store. The ground floor bar even has a drive-through coffee bar, ideal for people cycling to work! We had the pleasure of having a delicious lunch on the top floor of the building which has an amazing rooftop terrace with views over The Hague city centre, especially the square Grote Mark (‘Large Market’) that has bars and restaurants on all sides. It’s the perfect place to grab a drink or some food on hot summer days. Unfortunately, even though we had blue skies overhead it was a tad too chilly to sit outside. Yet another reason to return?
Dinner
Another high of The Hague is The Penthouse Restaurant located on the 42nd floor of The Hague Tower. It’s not only the highest restaurant in The Hague but also in Holland. Apart from The Penthouse restaurant (and bar), The Hague Tower is a modern residential and office skyscraper. It was inspired by the Flatiron building in New York. Because of the height, the views over The Hague are amazing, especially when the city is lit up at night. The Resturant has an open-air viewing platform that you can venture onto if you’re not afraid of heights of course. If you’re looking for a special place to have a meal then this unique restaurant is it. The menu is brimming with wonderful dishes. You can even leave the choice to the chef by having the 3-course Discovery menu. Basically, you do not know what you’re having to eat, until it arrives at your table. A great option if you like surprises.
What Museums to Visit?
Maurithuis
No visit to The Hague is complete without a visit to the Maurithuis which was originally established in 1822. Even though Vicky had visited before, it is somewhere she could keep going back to time after time. This beautiful bijou museum, once the residence of count John Maurice of Nassau, is packed with masterpieces. This includes an extensive collection of eighteen paintings that are or have been attributed to Rembrandt. They are currently on display in a special exhibition until September 2019. Together with other famous painters from the Dutch Golden Age including Steen and Vermeer (‘Girl With A Pearl Earring’ anyone?). With over 840 exhibits, it’s important to allocate enough time to get around them, or at least the biggies. Even though each painting has a small description next to it we’d recommend downloading the Mauritshuis Tour app to your smartphone. It gives you further information about each piece.
Escher in the Palace (Escher in Het Paleis)
The Escher Museum which was established in 2002 and located on Lange Voorhout which is one of if not the most beautiful street in The Hague. The museum is great for two reasons. Not only the amazing and mind-bending artwork on display but also the beautiful building it is all housed in. You may be familiar with Escher? He was a Dutch graphic artist who created mathematically inspired pieces. His world famous prints including Air and Water, Waterfall and Drawing can all be seen in the museum together with his lithographs and mezzotints. The building is the Lange Voorhout Palace, which is a former royal palace and dates back to the eighteenth century. It is simply stunning. As you walk around, check out what’s written on the windows. It gives you more information about the room you are in and its original use when it was a royal residence.
Museum Voorlinden
Our favourite museum in The Hague is the Voorlinden Museum just on the outskirts of the city. It is privately owned by Joop van Caldenborgh and jam-packed with modern art pieces. It also has one of the most impressive libraries we have ever seen. The museum was opened on 10th September 2016. It has quickly become one of the most popular museums in The Hague. We definitely recommend taking a guided tour (available in English, French, German and of course Dutch), if you have the time and budget permits. There are a number of permanent and temporary (which change on a regular basis) exhibitions to wander around and admire. Our personal favourite pieces include Couple under an Umbrella by Ron Mueck, Skyspace by James Turrell and Leandro Erlich’s Swimming Pool. The museum is located in beautiful gardens and there’s also a great on-site restaurant, perfect for grabbing lunch at too.
- Thank you to The Hague Marketing Bureau and Visit Holland for inviting us to visit this fab city. As always opinions are my own.
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